Climbing (winding) rose: planting and care, support


No matter how beautiful other flowers are, they cannot compete with a rose. The popularity of this flower in the world is steadily growing, it never goes out of fashion, just today tea hybrid roses are in favor, and tomorrow, perhaps, will be ground cover. In recent years has increased, the interest in climbing roses has been quieted. This is primarily due to the fact that a lot of new varieties have appeared, combining the best features of many-flowered and large-flowered varieties.

Growing climbing roses on private plots has become commonplace, but many complain that, unlike other varieties, these beauties behave capriciously and do not justify the expectations placed on them. The thing is that you need to care for them a little differently, and the support for a climbing rose is of great importance, you need to make it from the right material and place it in the right place, and not anywhere. In this article we will try to answer most of the questions that arise when caring for climbing roses.

General acquaintance with climbing roses

When we talk about climbing roses, we usually mean a plant with flexible, long branches. It is impossible to trace a varietal climbing rose to wild ancestors today. It is the end result of centuries-old selection and crossing of both pre-existing varieties and various types of wild rose.

The classification of climbing roses is currently at the stage of formation, as the old one has finally lost its relevance, and the new one has not yet fully formed. By and large, all climbing roses are divided into two very extensive subgroups: small-flowered and large-flowered.

Small flowers climbing roses

Representatives of this subgroup are distinguished by long flexible branches about 4-6 meters and numerous small flowers, gathered in large brushes. Usually they bloom only once per season, but very abundantly and continuously on the stems of the last year. Growing climbing roses of a small-flowered group is imperative on supports.

Large-flowered climbing roses

These plants differ primarily in the fact that flowering occurs on the branches of the current year, several times per season. Usually large-flowered climbing roses have stems that are more powerful and short - about one and a half meters, flowers are much larger than those of the previous subgroup. As can be seen in the photo, they can be single or assembled into loose brushes of several pieces.

Curly or climbing rose

Often the question is how to distinguish a climbing rose from a climbing rose. The answer is very simple - no way. Speaking from the point of view of a biologist or gardener, there is not a single climbing rose variety. The stems of this plant are not able to twist the support, they are attached to it. There is no rose and antennae capable of embracing something.

It may be objected that they repeatedly saw a climbing rose in a cottage with neighbors or in a magazine in the photo, which climbs a tree and there is no garter visible there. The reason for this is simple - young shoots of climbing roses are directed upwards, and they wilt, reaching a certain height. The spines of such plants are usually very large, they cling to a nearby tree, young lateral shoots grow up and to the side, bypassing the barrier in the form of branches, and then grab them. As a result, the tree and the climbing rose are so intertwined that even with a strong desire to disengage them will not work.

Comment! Conclusion: climbing and winding roses are one and the same. Simply “climbing” is the official name of the rose, and “climbing” is the national name of those plants that the gardener or the owner tied to a vertical support.

Both terms have the right to exist and, by and large, are not in conflict with each other.

Modern climbing roses

Although modern climbing roses are currently not officially divided into groups, traders, landscape designers and owners of summer plots have already divided them into ramblers, cordes, climber and climbers for their own convenience. It may take several years and some of these names will be officially approved.

Ramblera and cordesa bloom on the branches of the past season and are a modern variant of small-flowered climbing roses. But more and more blooming varieties appear, while the Cordes have rather large glasses. Look at the photo, what wonderful flowers in modern varieties.

Climbers and climbers are similar in that they bloom again, moreover, like large-flowered climbing roses on a new growth. Here are just climbers are a kidney mutation of the floribunda rose, hybrid tea or other groups. They resemble a curling rose to everyone except the glass that they inherited from the original variety. True, repairing is not always inherited by them.

Rose Agrotechnics

To get a beautiful healthy plant, you need to systematically properly care for him. Fortunately, roses are hardy plants, but they don’t like being left unattended. Caring for climbing roses should be systematic - they will manage without some time, but then you will notice that the once beautiful variety has degenerated - it has become untidy, it rarely blooms, it has lost its repair.

Planting climbing roses

Proper planting of a climbing rose is a guarantee of her health and long abundant blooming. These plants can live on the site for more than 20 years, therefore, they must be placed carefully and correctly. It happens that we bury a sapling in a hole, and then we wonder why the same plant at a neighbor in the country in two years braided the entire wall, and constantly blooms, and we have given two inferior flowers and it looks like it is going to die.

Important! When buying climbing roses, pay attention to the fact that the roots are well developed and branched, the buds do not have pale long sprouts (it is better if they are at rest), and the stems (at least two) were at least 75 cm long.

Choosing a place

Climbing roses have their own requirements for growing conditions:

  • The place where the flowers will grow should be well lit most of the day. The plant makes a good light shading in the second half of the day, but in a deep shadow it will first not blossom, it will be difficult to care for it, and eventually it will die without a transplant.
  • Fortunately, climbing roses are undemanding to the ground. And though most of them are suitable acid-rich, humus-rich, well-drained loam, will grow on almost any soil. Where climbing roses should not be planted, it is on extremely acidic or alkaline soils. On poor and very dense clay soils, organic matter should be added. And to improve soil drainage for climbing roses, sometimes it is enough to loosen the soil twice before planting.
  • What plants absolutely can not stand - so these are wetlands. You can not plant them in places where the groundwater level rises above 1.5 m. If you have such a plot, before you grow climbing roses, you need to make a raised flower bed or terrace for them.
  • It is impossible to plant young plants where roses have been growing for more than 10 years before - the ground there has been exhausted and infected with pathogens and pests. What to do if you definitely need to plant climbing roses at this place will be described below.
  • These plants do not like low-lying, blown open areas by strong wind.
  • In order for them not to hurt, you need space.

Important! When choosing a place for climbing roses, remember that they grow well near trees, but those grown in the shade of trees often get sick and do not bloom well.

Planting time

It is believed that climbing roses can be planted at any time. It may be possible, but in order to avoid problems in the future, it is better to do it at an appropriate time. It is best to plant a plant with an open root in regions with a cold wet climate and poor soils in April or May. In the southernmost regions of the planting of climbing roses is carried out in November, and a little to the north - in late October, when the Indian summer ends.

Comment! This is the best time, in fact, in spring and autumn, climbing roses can be planted in all regions.

Year for a year is not necessary, make sure that during planting the soil was not already or still frozen or too wet.

Tip! To understand whether the soil is not over-moistened, you need to squeeze a handful of earth in your fist. If after you opened the palm, the lump did not lose its shape, and after hitting the ground it crumbled, but did not spread, then everything is in order.

But container plants can be planted throughout the season.

Soil preparation

Planting a climbing rose and caring for it in the future will be much easier if you prepare the ground in advance.

  • The site for the rose garden, you must first double dig up to a depth of 50-70 cm, this is especially important for heavy clay soils.
  • On poor soils for digging, add 10-20 kg of organic matter (manure, humus or peat compost) per 1 sq. Km. m, the more, the worse the condition of the soil.
  • In very acidic soil, add 500 g of dolomite flour or lime per square meter.
  • On chalky soils or in those places where roses have been growing for more than 10 years in a row, they dig up planting pits 60x60 cm, 45 cm deep. They are filled with planting mixture consisting of equal parts of turfy ground and peat with two liter jars of bone meal added to two mixture buckets.
  • Small stones in the ground can be left, but the roots of weeds must be carefully selected and thrown away.
  • Before planting climbing roses, it is recommended to let the soil settle for 6 weeks.

Plant preparation

It happens that purchased climbing roses with a bare root can not be planted immediately, they need to somehow save. To do this, dig a V-shaped hole, lay out plants labeled along one of the sides. The recess is filled with soil, slightly compacted.

Immediately before planting, the roots of plants are soaked in water for a couple of hours. Well, if it will be added to root or heteroauxin. If the stalks of the plant have wrinkled, the bush of a climbing rose is immersed in water entirely.

Make sure that all old, broken or too weak shoots are removed from it, and old leaves are also planted during spring planting. If there are rotten or broken roots remove them, and if they are very long, shorten to 30 cm.

Important! When planting a climbing rose, the roots should not remain open for a minute - cover them with burlap or cellophane.

Planting a rose

Whether the care and cultivation of climbing roses is simple depends largely on the correct fit. First of all, we note that if it is planned to plant several plants, the distance between them should be at least 2-3 meters. Otherwise, climbing roses will simply interfere with each other, their care will be difficult. Other plants should not be planted closer than half a meter from the rose bush.

Planting rose open root

If you plant a plant with a bare root, dig a hole at a distance of 40 cm from the support with a bevel in the opposite direction from it. The hole should not be either deep or too shallow, the standard length of the planting hole is 60 cm, depth - 30. Adjust its size depending on the shape and size of the root system of the plant.

Place a few handfuls of planting mixture on the bottom of the pit (how to prepare it is described in the chapter on preparing the soil for planting), place the roots of a climbing rose in the opposite direction from the support. Sprinkle them with two shovels of soil, gently seal it.

Put a plank across the pit, make sure that the root neck of the plant or the grafting site is flush with the ground surface. Pour half of the volume of the planting mixture and again slightly compacted soil.

Important! Sealing the landing fob always start from the edge and move to the center. Do not push in full force!

Dip the well completely, crush the soil again and pour a climbing rose abundantly. Even if the ground when planting a climbing rose was damp, you need at least one bucket of water for one plant. When it is absorbed, dosypte planting mixture. As a result, the root neck or the grafting site will be 2-3 cm deep. This is the correct planting of the plant.

Even if you plant climbing roses in the spring, sprinkle a small mound of earth, covering part of the stem. Now only remains to tie the branches to the support.

Container climbing roses

Of course, a container plant that can be planted at any time of the year. Planting it is not as difficult as the one that has the root. But here another problem may lie in wait for us - the roots are quite comfortable in the nutrient peat mixture and they may not be in a hurry to grow into the garden soil.

We will tell you how to plant a rose from a container. Dig a planting hole that is 10 cm longer than the pot size on all sides. Place a layer of planting mixture on the bottom, carefully, trying not to disturb the earthen clod, remove the climbing rose and place it in the center of the pit so that the top part of the earthen clod is flush with the edges landing fossa.

Fill the empty space with planting mixture, gently seal it. Liberally water the plant, and when the water is fully absorbed, pour out the soil.

Tip! To make it easier to get the plant out of the container without breaking the earthy ball, pour a climbing rose abundantly.

The first time after leaving the plant should be plentiful and often watered, and if you planted them in the spring, then pritenyat in the first days. You can simply cover them with newspapers at noon.

Garter of climbing roses to supports

Climbing or climbing rose has long flexible shoots that often need support. What do you mean often? Are not climbing roses always tied up?

Plants that do not need support

Large-flowered varieties of climbing roses really do not always need support. If the plant has powerful erect stems that reach a certain length, they wilt, and there is enough space on the plot, you can not tie them up. They can form an excellent hedge in a large area that does not require special care. Only it is necessary to take into account that climbing roses have free growth, therefore, it will not be possible to give such a hedge a strict geometric shape.

Climbing large-flowered rose with beautiful leaves and attractive crown can act as a tapeworm (a single focal plant). Look at the photo, how beautiful it can be.

But some climbing large-flowered roses a few years later may require support. To do this, dig around the plant a few pieces of reinforcement or wooden posts, connect them with a strong thick rope or crossbars. Flexible branches will cover the supports, and the plant will become more stable and beautiful.

A warning! Just do not dig a long pole near the bush and do not tie a climbing rose to it with a rope - it will look ugly.

Formation of a bush in the form of a fan

Usually, small-flowered climbing roses are formed in this way, but the formed along the wall, fence or lattice and large-flowered varieties will look spectacular.

Remember that the garter of climbing roses is not easy, you need to form a plant from the moment of planting. To this end, a support grid is installed at a distance of at least 7.5 cm near the wall of the house, or hooks are driven in even rows into the wall and the strong wire in a plastic sheath is taut. Hooks for tensioning the wire drive at least less than 1.2 meters, the distance between the rows of the wire should be no more than 50 cm.

The main shoots of climbing roses, if possible, should be sent horizontally or in the form of a fan. Side shoots will grow up, they beautifully drape the wall. Tie shoots to the support should be strong wire in plastic sheath, and not very tight - so it does not hurt the stems when they become thicker.

A warning! Do not use plastic mesh as a support for climbing roses. Even if at the initial stages it seems to be strong enough, with time it will break under the weight of a climbing rose, you will not be able to unravel the branches of the plant, you will have to cut them off.

Care for a tied rose tied up in this way will not be easy. Even more difficult is the shelter of such a design for the winter, but the wall, decorated with beautiful fragrant flowers, will be so spectacular that it will more than pay for all the efforts.

Small architectural forms

MAFY (small architectural forms) are all architectural decorative elements located in our garden and serving for its decoration. Often they perform purely utilitarian functions.

Climbing roses can decorate many of them: gazebos, trellis, pergolas, arches. From the very beginning of the regrowth of shoots they are gently guided along a support, tied up with strong wire in a plastic sheath.

Pole post

Around a pillar or tripod, young shoots of climbing roses are simply wrapped in a spiral and tied up neatly.

Tree as a support for climbing rose

Sometimes it happens that a large plant disappears or loses its decorative effect on a plot, and it is impossible to uproot it. Plant a climbing rose on the windward side of the tree and tie it up until it reaches the branches. After a couple of years with proper care, you get a very beautiful composition.

Climbing Roses Care

Нет ни одного другого растения, вокруг ухода за которым велось бы столько споров. Розоводы всего мира сходятся в трех вещах: плетистые розы нужно регулярно поливать, подкармливать и рыхлить почву под ними. True, in recent times, soil mulching around plants has become very popular, making it impossible to cultivate often, but it helps retain moisture and protects against weeds.


In climbing roses, especially grafted, powerful root system. Older plants can do without watering even for the hottest dry summer. Still, it is better if you water them as the soil dries.

Attention! Unlike others, climbing roses need regular watering.

It is best to water the plants in the evening or early in the morning at the root. Getting on the leaves, moisture can cause fungal diseases, especially often climbing rose suffers from powdery mildew. Even better, if you sit down the means and the opportunity to install drip watering.

What you can not do, so it is to water the plant often and little by little. You moisten the top layer of soil, the moisture from which will quickly evaporate, and the main roots that feed the plant will suffer from a lack of water. Water rarely, but in large quantities. Under the climbing rose, you need to pour at least 15 liters of water.

Do not be fooled that everything is good if in hot weather the old rose bush looks attractive and continuously blooms. The plant will take revenge on you in the next season - in the spring it will be bad to go out of the dormant period, will give a weak increase and poor flowering. In addition, the climbing rose, which was poorly watered in the previous summer, usually has smaller flowers than it can under normal conditions.

Important! The newly planted plant is watered often until it takes root.

Top dressing

If climbing roses are not fed, they will grow and bloom, but this will affect the rate of shoot growth and the quality of flowering. A plant that does not receive the necessary nutrients will give a weak increase (and this is unacceptable for climbing varieties), will be more susceptible to diseases and may even lose repairability for the season (the ability to bloom again).

Plant dressings are divided into root and foliar.

Root dressing

Rozovody specialists make root feeding of climbing roses up to 7 times per season. Immediately after their disclosure, they are fed with ammonium nitrate, after two weeks, fertilizing is repeated. During the budding period, the plant is given a full range of mineral fertilizers, and it is better to take a special one intended for roses.

Immediately before the first wave of flowering of climbing roses, which is usually the most lush and massive and requires a lot of strength from the plant, feed the bushes with extract of mullein or bird droppings diluted 1:10 or 1:20, respectively.

After the first wave of flowering, which usually ends at the end of July, climbing roses are fed with complete mineral fertilizer and at this feeding, containing nitrogen, stop. If the plant absorbs nitrogen further, the growth of the shoots will continue, they will not have time to mature for the winter and will freeze to death. Sometimes a climbing rose with undisturbed shoots dies in winter.

Starting in August, you need to give the plant two more feeding. Previously, potassium monophosphate came to the rescue - it, in addition to saturating the climbing rose with phosphorus and potassium, helps to mature the shoots, strengthens the root system, helps the plant to prepare for winter and survive it safely. Today, there are new fertilizers that do not contain nitrogen. When you buy, consult the seller, which is better suited to your conditions.

Important! If when planting a climbing rose you have well-filled the ground with organic matter, in spring and summer you can not feed the plant at the root. But two autumn feeding, not containing nitrogen fertilizers, it is better to do.

Foliar top dressing

Foliar application is called fast. It is carried out directly on the crown of a plant from a garden sprayer. Experienced gardeners make such treatments once every two weeks from the moment the leaves of climbing roses bloom until the end of summer.

Top dressing acts for a long time, but it does not immediately reach the leaves and buds, and the top root is immediately supplied to the soft tissues of the plant, its action is felt by a climbing rose on the same day. In addition, trace elements that are vital for a perennial plant are better absorbed during foliar feeding.

It is best to apply both complex mineral fertilizer, soluble in water, chelate complex and epin. Everything is poured into one cylinder and mix well. To do this, just leave a little empty space in it and shake well.

Comment! Epin and chelates tend to foam. It is best to add them when the balloon is already filled with water. Of course, it will take longer to shake it, but you will not wait until the foam settles.

The beauty of foliar top dressing of climbing roses is that at the same time they can be used to treat the plant against pests and diseases by simply adding the desired preparation along with fertilizers, if this is not prohibited in the instructions.

Important! Metal oxides, such as copper-containing preparations, iron sulfate, etc., are not combined with anything, they need to be treated separately!

Foliar treatment of climbing roses should be carried out carefully and only early in the morning or in cloudy weather.


Mulching allows you to retain moisture in the ground, inhibits the growth of weeds and can serve as an additional feeding for the plant. The soil can be ground with peat, well-rotted manure, mowed grass, leaf humus or chopped wood bark.


Loosening is intended to protect against weeds and to improve soil aeration, that is, to give oxygen access to the roots of the plant. You can not loosen the ground under climbing roses deeper than a couple of centimeters, otherwise you risk damaging the thin sucking roots.

Removal of dead buds and root growth

In order for repairing climbing roses to bloom better, you need to remove faded flowers in a timely manner. They need to be removed with a pruner, making a cut over the second or third sheet. The young plant is removed only a very short stretch of shoot.

If climbing rose blooms once a season and has beautiful fruits, they are left on the bush. Before sheltering a plant for the winter, the fruits must also be removed.

Root shoots are shoots that grow from the rootstock, and not from the grafted varietal plant. If you do not remove them in a timely manner, they will simply drown the bush. In order to remove root shoots, it is not enough to cut them at ground level — this way it will grow even better over time. You need to dig out the root a little and cut off the excess shoot at the very root of the plant's neck, and this should be done as early as possible.

Comment! It is very easy to distinguish the root growth - usually it is very different from the cultivated plant in both the color and the shape of the leaves.


Pruning is one of the most important steps in plant care. For climbing varieties of roses, it is especially important - after all, the appearance of the plant and the abundance of flowering depend on timely and correctly pruned shoots. Incorrectly trimmed climbing rose may not bloom at all.

The purpose of pruning is to remove old shoots in a timely manner, which stimulates flowering and the formation of new plant stems. New stems also need to be adjusted, otherwise we will get a tangle of thin branches that are mated together, and we will wait for flowering for years.

When to prune

The main pruning of climbing roses is carried out in the spring, during the swelling of the buds, immediately after you remove the winter shelter from the plant. Pruning stimulates the opening of the kidneys, and if done too early, there is a danger that the foliage leaves will freeze during return frost. If you tighten with pruning, unnecessary shoots are pulled out of the plant strength and weaken it.

Climbing multi-flowered roses are cut after flowering. Remember that they bloom on thin shoots of the past year - if you cut them all away, you will wait for new buds for a whole year.

Tip! Shorten the longest shoots of the plant in November.

Trimming methods

By and large, climbing roses do not cut, and remove the dead ends on the shoots. There are three options for trimming climbing varieties:

  1. The plant cut out all the weak and dried shoots.
  2. The plant cut out all the weak and dried shoots. Side shoots are cut by one third.
  3. The plant cut out all the weak and dried shoots. Side shoots are cut by one third. Some of the main and skeletal branches are cut out by one third.

What you need to remember when cutting

In order to avoid trouble and unnecessary work, do not forget about the following:

  • All pruning should be done only with sharp sterile garden tools.
  • All the stems of the plant, more than 2 cm thick, should be cut with a special shears to thick branches or saw off.
  • The cut should be flat and smooth.
  • The cut should be oblique and be located 1 cm above the kidney.
  • The direction of the cut bias - the kidney is on an acute angle.
  • The kidney should be directed out of the plant.

Reproduction of climbing rose cuttings

Almost all climbing roses, except for climbers, which are nothing more than a mutation, reproduce well by cutting. The advantage of this breeding is that bushes grown from cuttings do not give root shoots - they are fully cultivated plants.

In September, cut well-ripened shoots of the current year as thick as a pencil. Climbing rose from cuttings is not obtained from the tops of the shoots - at this time they either have not ripened or are still thin. Make the upper cut straight, at a distance of 0.5-1.0 cm from the sheet, the lower cut - oblique, 1 cm below the kidney, and it should be on the pointed side of the cut.

Remove all spikes and two lower leaves and place the cutting in the phytohormone solution for 2 hours. In a shady, well-protected place from the wind, dig a hole with one flat side approximately 15 cm deep. Fill it with a third with sand and at a distance of 15 cm from each other place cuttings in the groove, leaning them against the sheer wall so that the bottom sheet is above the surface ground.

Fill the hole with soil and compact it well - neglect of this rule is the most frequent cause of death of the grown young plants. Liberally pour landing. In the future, care will be in regular watering, shading from the midday sun and plucking the buds - you can not give a badly rooted cutting to bloom. In the fall the young plant is ready for planting at a permanent place.

Important! The best survival is provided by cuttings, broken out with a “heel” - a piece of the stem.

We told you how to grow a climbing rose from the cutting yourself, we hope that you are convinced that it is not at all difficult.


To properly care for climbing roses, you need to work hard. But the result is simply enchanting. We missed one moment - so that climbing roses should be beautiful and healthy, love them.